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Tow ins at Currumbin August 28

August 28, 2014

The big winter swell continues but today there is an impossible sweep and a strong southerly.

The swells are frothy, Saharan dust stormed and feral, All Black-like in there offensive lines, intense, prone to shock and surprise, except probably not as consistent.

After these shots I go to Kirra.  Huge Kirra three times over head and barrelling slower than Monday.

“#@%&&^^%”

I park, suit up and walk down to the South side of Greenmount hill and drift to Kirra Surf. Massive sweep. It’s funky and ripply and I take a couple of littlies.

Drift quicky past the groin during a long lull. Whinge to a few salmon paddling up stream. Then a set comes and I don’t take the first one, but the second is so far out. It just grabs me like the All Black forward pack and pushes me backwards grunting and heaving past Kirra Surf.

Nothing to do but surrender.

On the long cold return in the day’s last green grey light I walk backwards shivering and beaten to watch a surfer getting towed in on about three long waves, doing three deep barrels a wave at super speed. He was riding waves from Pizza Hut through to past Kirra Surf disappearing almost in the dark distance. Massive triple over headers smashing every part of their face pulling in and coming out of barrel after barrel… I later heard it was local big wave riding legend Dean Morrison
Click here to see Mick Fanning at Kirra videoed by Craig Halstead and posted on Coastal Watch.

Photos copyright Mic Smith

The only way into them is to tow in.IMG_5148 IMG_5149 IMG_5168 IMG_5179 IMG_5192 IMG_5197 IMG_5199 IMG_5201 IMG_5219 IMG_5227 IMG_5229 IMG_5232 IMG_5237

From → surfing

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